How Do You Fix Radon in Your Home?

The solution to fixing radon in your home almost always involves radon mitigation, a process that prevents radon gas from entering your living spaces. This typically involves installing a radon reduction system, often a sub-slab depressurization (SSD) system, to vent radon from beneath the foundation to the outside.

Understanding the Radon Problem

Radon is a naturally occurring, colorless, odorless, and tasteless radioactive gas formed from the decay of uranium in soil, rock, and water. It seeps into homes through cracks in foundations, walls, construction joints, and gaps around pipes. Prolonged exposure to elevated radon levels increases the risk of lung cancer, making radon a significant public health concern. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends that you fix your home if your radon level is 4 pCi/L (picocuries per liter) or higher. Even levels between 2 pCi/L and 4 pCi/L warrant consideration of mitigation.

Radon Mitigation Techniques: A Deep Dive

The most effective method for reducing radon levels is sub-slab depressurization (SSD). This active system works by creating a negative pressure zone beneath the foundation.

Sub-Slab Depressurization (SSD) Systems

An SSD system typically involves the following components:

• PVC piping: A network of pipes installed beneath the concrete slab or through a hollow block wall.
• Radon fan: An electric fan that creates suction in the piping system, drawing radon gas from the soil.
• Vent pipe: A pipe that carries the radon gas from the fan to an exhaust point above the roofline, where it is safely dispersed into the atmosphere.
• Manometer: A gauge used to monitor the vacuum pressure of the system, indicating proper operation.
• Sealing: Cracks and openings in the foundation are sealed to prevent radon from entering the home through other pathways.

The installation process usually involves drilling a hole through the concrete slab and excavating a small amount of soil to create a suction pit. The PVC piping is then connected to the suction pit and runs to the exterior of the house. The radon fan is installed inline, and the vent pipe is extended upwards. After installation, the system’s performance is tested to ensure it is effectively reducing radon levels.

Other Mitigation Methods

While SSD is the most common and often the most effective, other methods may be appropriate in certain situations:

• Sub-membrane Depressurization (SMD): Used in crawl spaces, involving covering the crawl space floor with a plastic membrane and creating a negative pressure underneath.
• Block Wall Depressurization: Addresses radon entering through hollow block walls, often combined with SSD.
• Radon Resistant New Construction (RRNC): Incorporating radon-reducing features during the building phase, crucial in high-radon areas.
• Natural Ventilation: Increasing airflow in the house, although less reliable than active systems and difficult to manage effectively.
• Sealing Cracks and Openings: While helpful, sealing alone is rarely sufficient to lower radon levels below the EPA action level.
• House Pressurization: Involves using a fan to create positive pressure in the house, preventing radon from entering. This is less common due to potential energy inefficiencies and moisture issues.

Selecting a Qualified Radon Mitigation Professional

Hiring a qualified radon mitigation professional is crucial for ensuring the effectiveness and safety of the mitigation system. Look for professionals who are:

• Certified by the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP) or the American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists (AARST). Certification ensures the professional has met specific training and competency requirements.
• Licensed (where required by state or local regulations).
• Experienced and knowledgeable about radon mitigation techniques specific to your region and home type.
• Insured and bonded.
• Willing to provide references from previous clients.

Obtain multiple bids from different mitigation professionals and compare their proposals carefully. Ask detailed questions about their approach, the materials they will use, and the expected outcome. A reputable contractor will conduct a diagnostic test to determine the best mitigation strategy for your home.

Post-Mitigation Testing and Maintenance

After the mitigation system is installed, it is essential to perform a post-mitigation radon test to verify that the system is effectively reducing radon levels below the EPA action level. This test should be conducted at least 24 hours after the system has been operating.

Regular maintenance of the radon mitigation system is also important. Check the manometer regularly to ensure the fan is operating correctly. Have the system inspected and tested periodically by a qualified professional, typically every two years, to ensure it continues to perform effectively. Radon fans typically last for 5-10 years and will need replacement when they fail.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: How does sub-slab depressurization actually work?

SSD creates a vacuum under your foundation using a fan and piping. This vacuum draws radon gas from the soil before it enters your home, then vents it safely above the roofline where it disperses. Think of it as sucking the radon out before it has a chance to get inside.

Q2: Is sealing cracks in my foundation enough to fix a radon problem?

While sealing cracks is a good practice, it’s rarely sufficient to lower radon levels below the EPA action level. Radon can still enter through other pathways, and the pressure difference between the soil and your home can draw radon through even seemingly small openings. Sealing should be considered a supplemental measure, not a standalone solution.

Q3: How much does a radon mitigation system typically cost?

The cost of a radon mitigation system can vary depending on several factors, including the size and construction of your home, the severity of the radon problem, and the complexity of the installation. Generally, you can expect to pay anywhere from $800 to $2,500 for a standard SSD system installation. Crawl space mitigation can sometimes be more expensive.

Q4: How long does it take to install a radon mitigation system?

Most SSD systems can be installed in one day, typically taking between 4 to 8 hours. More complex installations, such as those involving multiple suction points or challenging venting routes, may take longer.

Q5: Will a radon mitigation system affect my home’s resale value?

Having a radon mitigation system installed can actually increase your home’s resale value by demonstrating that you have taken steps to address a potential health hazard. Many homebuyers now request radon testing as part of the home inspection process, and having a system in place can make your home more attractive to potential buyers. Disclose the radon test results and the presence of the system.

Q6: How often should I test my home for radon?

The EPA recommends testing your home for radon every two years, even if you have a mitigation system in place. You should also test after any significant renovations or alterations to your home, as these changes can affect radon levels.

Q7: Can I install a radon mitigation system myself?

While DIY radon mitigation kits are available, it’s strongly recommended to hire a certified radon mitigation professional. Proper installation requires specialized knowledge, equipment, and testing to ensure the system is effective and safe. Improper installation can actually worsen the problem or create other hazards.

Q8: Are there different types of radon fans, and how do I choose the right one?

Yes, there are different types of radon fans, each designed for specific applications. Key factors to consider include the fan’s airflow capacity (measured in cubic feet per minute or CFM), static pressure (measured in inches of water column), and energy efficiency. A qualified mitigation professional can assess your home’s specific needs and recommend the appropriate fan size and type. Look for fans that are UL-listed and energy-efficient.

Q9: How noisy are radon fans?

Radon fans are generally designed to be relatively quiet, but some noise is inevitable. The noise level can vary depending on the fan model, its location, and the surrounding environment. Installing the fan in an attic, garage, or exterior location can help minimize noise. Some manufacturers offer noise-dampening accessories that can further reduce noise levels.

Q10: What happens if my radon fan stops working?

If your radon fan stops working, radon levels in your home will likely increase. You should test your home for radon immediately and contact a qualified mitigation professional to repair or replace the fan as soon as possible. A manometer reading of zero often indicates a fan failure.

Q11: Will a radon mitigation system eliminate radon completely?

While a radon mitigation system can significantly reduce radon levels, it may not eliminate radon completely. Most systems are designed to reduce radon levels below the EPA action level of 4 pCi/L. Regular testing is essential to ensure the system continues to perform effectively.

Q12: I’m building a new home. Should I be concerned about radon?

Absolutely. Incorporating radon-resistant new construction (RRNC) techniques during the building process is highly recommended, especially in areas known to have high radon levels. These techniques are relatively inexpensive to implement during construction and can significantly reduce the risk of radon entering your home. Contact your local building department for specific requirements.