How Do You Fix Radon in a House? A Definitive Guide from the Experts

Fixing radon in a house involves a process called radon mitigation, primarily achieved by installing a radon reduction system that vents the gas safely outside. This system, typically involving a vent pipe and fan, prevents radon from entering the home in the first place, drastically lowering indoor levels to acceptable standards.

Understanding the Radon Problem

Radon is a naturally occurring, colorless, odorless, and tasteless radioactive gas that forms from the decay of uranium in soil, rock, and water. It can seep into homes through cracks and openings in the foundation, posing a significant health risk. Prolonged exposure to elevated radon levels is the second leading cause of lung cancer, after smoking. Therefore, testing your home for radon and mitigating if levels are high is crucial for protecting your family’s health.

Radon Mitigation: Your Solution

The most common and effective method for fixing radon problems is soil depressurization. This involves creating a vacuum beneath the building’s foundation to draw radon gas out and vent it safely above the roofline, away from windows and air intakes.

Sub-Slab Depressurization: The Gold Standard

This technique is most often used for homes with a slab foundation or a basement with a slab floor. A mitigation specialist will:

1. Identify a suitable location to drill a hole through the slab.
2. Create a suction pit beneath the slab by removing a small amount of soil.
3. Seal the hole around a PVC pipe that extends upwards through the house.
4. Install a radon mitigation fan in the pipe, typically in the attic or outside the house. This fan constantly draws air from under the slab.
5. Vent the radon gas through the pipe, which extends above the roofline.
6. Seal all cracks and openings in the foundation to prevent radon from entering the house through other routes.
7. Perform a post-mitigation radon test to ensure the system is working effectively.

Sub-Membrane Depressurization: For Crawl Spaces

Homes with crawl spaces often require a slightly different approach:

1. Cover the crawl space floor with a durable plastic membrane.
2. Seal the membrane to the foundation walls and any support posts.
3. Install a vent pipe beneath the membrane, connected to a radon mitigation fan.
4. Vent the radon gas through the pipe, extending above the roofline.

Other Mitigation Techniques

While soil depressurization is the most common method, other techniques may be appropriate depending on the construction of the house and the source of the radon. These include:

• Block Wall Depressurization: Addressing radon that enters through hollow block foundation walls.
• Drain-Tile Depressurization: Utilizing existing drain tile systems to vent radon.
• House Pressurization: While less common, this involves using a fan to create positive pressure inside the house, preventing radon from entering. However, this method is less reliable and can increase energy costs.
• Sealing Cracks and Openings: While sealing alone rarely provides adequate mitigation, it’s an important step in conjunction with other methods.

Choosing a Radon Mitigation Professional

Selecting a qualified and experienced radon mitigation professional is crucial for ensuring the job is done correctly and effectively. Look for professionals who are certified by the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP) or the American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists (AARST). These certifications demonstrate that the professional has undergone training and passed an exam to ensure competence in radon mitigation techniques.

Always obtain multiple bids and ask for references. Check online reviews and verify the professional’s license and insurance. Don’t be afraid to ask questions about their experience, the type of mitigation system they recommend, and the warranty they offer.

Post-Mitigation Testing: Verification is Key

After the radon mitigation system is installed, it’s essential to conduct a post-mitigation radon test to verify that the system is working effectively and that radon levels have been reduced to an acceptable level. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends that radon levels be below 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L). If the post-mitigation test reveals radon levels above this threshold, the mitigation system may need to be adjusted or additional measures may need to be taken.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. What level of radon is considered dangerous?

The EPA recommends taking action to reduce radon levels if they are 4 pCi/L or higher. Even levels between 2 pCi/L and 4 pCi/L may warrant consideration of mitigation, especially for those with risk factors like smoking. The lower the radon level, the lower the risk.

2. How much does radon mitigation typically cost?

The cost of radon mitigation varies depending on the size and construction of the house, the type of mitigation system required, and the geographic location. On average, mitigation costs range from $800 to $2,500.

3. How long does a radon mitigation system last?

The PVC piping of a radon mitigation system can last for decades, however, the radon fan typically needs replacement every 5-10 years. Proper maintenance, including regular inspections, can help extend the life of the system.

4. Does radon mitigation affect home value?

A radon mitigation system, particularly with proper documentation of testing and mitigation, can increase home value by demonstrating that the property is safe and habitable. It can also alleviate concerns for potential buyers.

5. Can I install a radon mitigation system myself?

While DIY kits are available, it’s generally not recommended to install a radon mitigation system yourself. Proper installation requires specialized knowledge, equipment, and techniques. Incorrect installation can be ineffective or even create new problems.

6. Does radon mitigation require ongoing maintenance?

Yes. While the PVC piping generally requires little maintenance, the radon fan should be checked regularly to ensure it’s functioning properly. You should also retest your home for radon every two years to verify that the mitigation system is still effective.

7. Can radon affect water quality?

Yes, radon can be present in well water. If your water source is a private well, you should test your water for radon and consider water mitigation techniques, such as aeration systems, if levels are high.

8. Does sealing cracks completely eliminate radon?

While sealing cracks and openings can help reduce radon levels, it is rarely sufficient as a standalone solution. It is typically used in conjunction with other mitigation techniques.

9. What are the signs that my radon mitigation system is not working properly?

Signs of a malfunctioning radon mitigation system include increased radon levels during post-mitigation testing, unusual noises from the fan, and visible cracks or damage to the system components.

10. What happens if I don’t fix a radon problem in my house?

Ignoring a radon problem puts you and your family at a significantly increased risk of developing lung cancer. The higher the radon levels and the longer the exposure, the greater the risk.

11. Are new homes required to be radon resistant?

Many states and local jurisdictions have radon-resistant new construction (RRNC) codes that require builders to incorporate features that help prevent radon from entering the home during construction. Check with your local building department to see if these codes are in effect in your area.

12. How do I dispose of a broken radon fan?

Radon fans do not contain hazardous materials and can typically be disposed of as regular household waste. However, it’s always a good idea to check with your local waste management authority for specific guidelines in your area.