How Do You Fix Radon in Your House?

Fixing radon in your house primarily involves installing a radon mitigation system, which actively vents radon gas from beneath your home to the outside, preventing it from entering your living spaces. This typically involves a sub-slab depressurization system, a fan-powered apparatus that creates a vacuum to draw radon up through piping and exhaust it safely above the roofline.

Understanding Radon Mitigation: A Detailed Guide

Radon is a naturally occurring, odorless, tasteless, and invisible radioactive gas that can seep into homes from the soil beneath. Prolonged exposure to elevated radon levels significantly increases the risk of lung cancer, making radon testing and mitigation crucial for homeowners. The good news is that effective solutions exist to substantially reduce radon concentrations within a dwelling.

Identifying the Problem: Radon Testing

Before diving into fixing the problem, it’s crucial to accurately measure radon levels. You can purchase a do-it-yourself radon test kit at most hardware stores, or hire a qualified radon professional to conduct the testing. Short-term tests provide a quick snapshot of radon levels, while long-term tests offer a more accurate average over several months. The EPA recommends fixing your home if radon levels are at or above 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L). Even levels between 2 and 4 pCi/L warrant consideration for mitigation.

The Core of the Solution: Sub-Slab Depressurization

The most common and effective method for radon mitigation is sub-slab depressurization (SSD). This technique creates a vacuum beneath the concrete slab of your foundation, preventing radon gas from entering your home. Here’s how it works:

1. Drilling a Hole: A hole is drilled through the concrete slab, typically in a basement or crawlspace.

2. Creating a Suction Pit: A small pit, typically a few gallons in volume, is created beneath the slab around the hole to enhance suction.

3. Installing a PVC Pipe: A PVC pipe, typically 3 or 4 inches in diameter, is inserted into the hole and sealed to the slab.

4. Connecting a Fan: A radon-specific fan is installed in the pipe, usually in an attic, garage, or exterior location. This fan creates a negative pressure, drawing radon gas from beneath the slab.

5. Venting Outdoors: The pipe extends above the roofline, safely venting the radon gas into the atmosphere where it is diluted and poses no significant health risk.

6. Sealing Cracks and Openings: Cracks and openings in the foundation walls and slab are sealed to prevent radon from entering through other pathways.

Other Mitigation Techniques

While sub-slab depressurization is the most common, other mitigation techniques may be used in specific situations:

• Sub-Membrane Depressurization: Similar to sub-slab depressurization, but used in crawlspaces with dirt floors. A plastic membrane is laid over the soil, and a fan draws radon gas from beneath the membrane.

• Block Wall Depressurization: Used when radon enters through hollow block walls. Holes are drilled into the blocks, and a fan draws radon gas from the wall cavity.

• House Pressurization: While less common, this technique involves using a fan to slightly pressurize the house, preventing radon from entering. This is generally less effective than sub-slab depressurization.

• Natural Ventilation: Increasing natural ventilation can help reduce radon levels, but this is often insufficient as a standalone solution and can lead to energy loss.

Professional Installation vs. DIY

While DIY radon mitigation kits are available, professional installation is highly recommended. Qualified radon mitigation professionals have the training, experience, and specialized equipment to design and install an effective and safe system. They can also ensure the system meets local building codes and regulations. Incorrect installation can be ineffective or even dangerous. Professionals also typically offer warranties on their work.

FAQs: Radon Mitigation Explained

FAQ 1: How much does radon mitigation cost?

The cost of radon mitigation varies depending on the size and design of your home, the type of mitigation system required, and your geographic location. Generally, expect to pay between $800 and $2,500 for a professionally installed sub-slab depressurization system.

FAQ 2: How long does it take to install a radon mitigation system?

Most radon mitigation systems can be installed in one day. The installation process typically takes between 4 to 8 hours.

FAQ 3: Will a radon mitigation system eliminate radon completely?

Radon mitigation systems are designed to reduce radon levels to as low as reasonably achievable. While they may not eliminate radon entirely, they can typically reduce levels below the EPA’s action level of 4 pCi/L. A well-designed and installed system can often bring levels below 2 pCi/L.

FAQ 4: How noisy is a radon mitigation system fan?

Modern radon mitigation fans are designed to be relatively quiet. The sound level is typically comparable to a refrigerator. The fan is often installed in an attic or garage to further minimize noise.

FAQ 5: How much electricity does a radon mitigation fan use?

Radon mitigation fans are relatively energy-efficient. Most fans use between 50 and 100 watts of electricity, which translates to a small increase in your monthly electricity bill.

FAQ 6: Does radon mitigation affect my home’s resale value?

Yes, radon mitigation can increase your home’s resale value. A home with a radon mitigation system demonstrates that you have addressed a potential health hazard, which can be a selling point for prospective buyers. In many areas, radon testing is required before a home can be sold.

FAQ 7: How do I maintain my radon mitigation system?

Radon mitigation systems require minimal maintenance. It is recommended to periodically check the manometer (a U-shaped tube filled with liquid) on the pipe to ensure the fan is operating correctly. You should also retest your home for radon every two years to ensure the system is still effective.

FAQ 8: What happens if my radon fan stops working?

If your radon fan stops working, radon levels in your home will increase. You should repair or replace the fan immediately to maintain the effectiveness of the mitigation system. Continually monitor the manometer for performance of the fan.

FAQ 9: Can I install a radon mitigation system myself?

While DIY kits are available, professional installation is highly recommended. Radon mitigation requires specialized knowledge and equipment to ensure the system is effective and safe. Improper installation can lead to higher radon levels or other problems.

FAQ 10: What are the signs that my radon mitigation system is not working?

Signs that your radon mitigation system may not be working include:

• Increased radon levels detected during a retest.
• The manometer showing a reading outside of the normal range.
• Unusual noises coming from the fan.

FAQ 11: Are there any long-term health risks associated with radon mitigation systems?

There are no known long-term health risks associated with properly installed and maintained radon mitigation systems. The system simply vents radon gas to the outside, where it is diluted and poses no significant health risk.

FAQ 12: Where can I find a qualified radon mitigation professional?

You can find a qualified radon mitigation professional by searching online directories or contacting your local health department. Look for professionals who are certified by the American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists (AARST) or the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP). These certifications indicate that the professional has met certain training and experience requirements.

Addressing radon issues in your home is a proactive step toward ensuring the health and safety of your family. By understanding the methods available and seeking professional assistance when needed, you can effectively mitigate radon and breathe easier.