How to Remove Radon Gas?
Removing radon gas from a home requires active intervention, typically involving the installation of a radon mitigation system. These systems create a pressure field below the foundation that draws radon gas away from the house and vents it safely into the atmosphere.
Understanding the Radon Threat and the Importance of Mitigation
Radon is a colorless, odorless, radioactive gas that forms naturally from the decay of uranium in soil, rock, and water. It’s the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States, responsible for an estimated 21,000 deaths each year. Because radon is a gas, it can easily seep into homes and buildings through cracks in foundations, gaps around pipes, and other openings.
The EPA recommends testing all homes below the third floor for radon. If your home’s radon level is at or above 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L), mitigation is strongly recommended. Even levels between 2 pCi/L and 4 pCi/L should be considered for mitigation. Ignoring elevated radon levels poses a significant and preventable health risk.
The Most Common Radon Mitigation Method: Sub-Slab Depressurization
The most effective and widely used method for removing radon is sub-slab depressurization (SSD). This system works by creating negative pressure under the concrete slab of your foundation, drawing radon gas away before it can enter your home.
How Sub-Slab Depressurization Works
A typical SSD system involves the following components:
- A suction point: A hole is drilled through the concrete slab, usually in a basement or crawl space.
- Piping: PVC pipe connects the suction point to a fan, usually located outside or in an attic.
- A fan: The fan creates a vacuum, drawing radon gas from under the slab.
- A vent stack: The pipe extends above the roofline, releasing the radon gas safely into the atmosphere where it dissipates.
- Sealing: Cracks and other openings in the foundation are sealed to improve the system’s efficiency and prevent radon from entering the home through other pathways.
The efficiency of an SSD system depends on several factors, including the type of foundation, the soil composition surrounding the house, and the system’s design and installation.
Variations on Sub-Slab Depressurization
Depending on the home’s construction, variations of SSD may be used:
- Sub-membrane Depressurization: For crawl spaces, a plastic membrane is laid over the dirt floor, and a suction point is installed underneath it.
- Drain-Tile Depressurization: If the home has drain tiles around the foundation, the system can be connected to them, drawing radon away from the surrounding soil.
Other Radon Mitigation Techniques
While SSD is the most common and effective method, other techniques may be used in specific situations or in conjunction with SSD:
Sealing Cracks and Openings
Sealing cracks and openings in the foundation can help reduce radon entry. However, sealing alone is usually not sufficient to lower radon levels to an acceptable range. It’s most effective when used in combination with an active mitigation system like SSD.
Increasing Ventilation
Increasing ventilation can help dilute radon concentrations inside the home. This can be achieved by opening windows and doors, using exhaust fans, or installing a heat recovery ventilator (HRV). However, increased ventilation can also increase energy costs.
Radon-Resistant New Construction (RRNC)
Building homes with RRNC techniques can prevent radon from entering in the first place. These techniques include installing a layer of gravel under the slab, sealing cracks and openings, and providing a passive vent pipe that can be easily converted into an active SSD system if needed.
Professional vs. DIY Radon Mitigation
While DIY radon test kits are readily available and reliable for initial screening, radon mitigation is best left to professionals. A qualified radon mitigation contractor will have the necessary training, equipment, and experience to design and install an effective system. They will also be able to provide a guarantee that the system will reduce radon levels to an acceptable range.
Attempting DIY mitigation without the proper knowledge and equipment can be ineffective, costly, and potentially dangerous. Improperly installed systems can actually increase radon levels in some areas of the home.
Long-Term Monitoring and Maintenance
After installing a radon mitigation system, it’s essential to retest the home to ensure the system is working effectively. The EPA recommends retesting every two years.
Radon mitigation systems also require periodic maintenance. The fan should be inspected annually to ensure it is operating correctly. Most radon mitigation fans have a lifespan of around 5 years, so they will eventually need to be replaced.
FAQs: Addressing Your Radon Mitigation Questions
Here are some frequently asked questions about radon mitigation:
1. How much does radon mitigation cost?
The cost of radon mitigation varies depending on the size and construction of the home, the type of system installed, and the location. On average, you can expect to pay between $800 and $2,500 for a professionally installed radon mitigation system.
2. How long does it take to install a radon mitigation system?
Most radon mitigation systems can be installed in one day.
3. Will a radon mitigation system make my house look ugly?
Radon mitigation systems can be installed discreetly. The vent pipe is typically run up the exterior of the house or through an attic, and the fan is usually located outside or in an attic. Skilled installers can minimize the system’s visibility.
4. How noisy is a radon mitigation fan?
Most radon mitigation fans are relatively quiet. However, some models can be louder than others. When choosing a fan, ask about its noise level and consider locating it away from living areas.
5. Can radon levels fluctuate after mitigation?
Yes, radon levels can fluctuate due to changes in weather, soil moisture, and other factors. This is why it’s important to retest your home periodically after mitigation.
6. Does radon mitigation affect my home’s value?
Installing a radon mitigation system can actually increase your home’s value. It demonstrates that you have taken steps to protect your family’s health and safety, which can be a selling point for potential buyers.
7. Can I sell my home if it has high radon levels?
Yes, you can sell your home if it has high radon levels. However, you are required to disclose this information to potential buyers. You may also be required to mitigate the radon before the sale can be completed.
8. Are there any natural ways to reduce radon levels?
While increasing ventilation can help, there are no truly “natural” methods to effectively remove radon gas. Active mitigation systems are necessary to achieve significant reductions.
9. Can radon mitigation systems cause other problems in my home?
Properly installed and maintained radon mitigation systems are generally safe and do not cause other problems in the home. However, poorly installed systems can cause issues such as backdrafting of combustion appliances or increased energy costs.
10. How do I choose a qualified radon mitigation contractor?
When choosing a radon mitigation contractor, look for someone who is certified by the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP) or the American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists (AARST). Ask for references and check their online reviews.
11. Can radon enter my home through the water supply?
Radon can enter your home through the water supply, especially if you have a private well. If your water supply tests high for radon, you may need to install a radon mitigation system for your water.
12. What are the long-term health risks of radon exposure?
The primary health risk of radon exposure is lung cancer. The risk is higher for smokers and those who are exposed to high radon levels for extended periods. Mitigation significantly reduces this risk.