How to Remove Radon from Your Home?

Removing radon from your home invariably involves installing a radon mitigation system, a process designed to vent the radioactive gas safely outdoors. This typically involves a sub-slab depressurization system, though the best solution depends on your home’s construction and radon levels.

Understanding the Radon Threat and Mitigation Options

Radon is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless radioactive gas that results from the natural decay of uranium in soil, rock, and water. It can seep into homes through cracks in foundations, walls, and floors. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) estimates that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States, responsible for approximately 21,000 deaths each year. Therefore, testing for radon and mitigating it when levels are high is crucial for protecting your family’s health.

The most common and effective method for radon removal is sub-slab depressurization (SSD). This system involves installing a PVC pipe that runs from under the concrete slab of your foundation, or through a crawl space, to an exhaust fan typically located outside the home. The fan creates a negative pressure, drawing radon gas from beneath the slab and venting it safely into the atmosphere, away from living areas.

Other mitigation strategies exist, though they are less frequently used:

• Soil Depressurization with Sump Hole Sealing: Useful when a sump pump is present. The sump pit is sealed, and the system vents air from underneath the slab through the sump.
• Block Wall Depressurization: Used in homes with hollow block foundation walls. The system draws air from within the block walls and vents it outside.
• Drain Tile Depressurization: Venting radon from a drain tile system installed around the perimeter of the foundation.
• Crawl Space Depressurization: In homes with crawl spaces, a plastic barrier is placed over the dirt floor, and a fan vents air from beneath the barrier to the outside.
• Natural Ventilation: Simply increasing ventilation throughout the home can lower radon levels, but this is generally only effective for very low radon concentrations and is not a reliable long-term solution.

Choosing the right mitigation strategy depends on factors like your home’s foundation type, radon levels, and local soil conditions. Consulting with a certified radon mitigation professional is the best way to determine the most effective and efficient solution for your specific needs. They will conduct a thorough assessment of your home and recommend the appropriate system, ensuring it is installed correctly and meets all applicable building codes.

The Radon Mitigation Process: A Step-by-Step Guide

Here’s a general outline of the radon mitigation process:

1. Radon Testing: The first step is always testing for radon. Use a short-term radon test kit for quick results or a long-term radon test kit for a more accurate average over several months.
2. Professional Assessment: If radon levels are 4 pCi/L (picocuries per liter) or higher, contact a certified radon mitigation contractor. They will inspect your home to identify potential entry points and determine the best mitigation approach.
3. System Design and Installation: The contractor will design a mitigation system tailored to your home’s specific characteristics. This usually involves drilling a hole in the concrete slab, inserting a PVC pipe, and connecting it to a fan.
4. Sealing Cracks and Openings: The contractor will seal any cracks, gaps, or openings in the foundation walls and floors to prevent radon from entering the home through alternative pathways.
5. System Activation and Testing: After installation, the contractor will activate the fan and conduct a post-mitigation radon test to ensure the system is effectively reducing radon levels.
6. Ongoing Monitoring: It’s recommended to retest your home for radon every two years to ensure the mitigation system is still functioning properly.

Long-Term Maintenance and Considerations

While radon mitigation systems are generally low-maintenance, some ongoing considerations are essential.

• Fan Maintenance: The fan is the heart of the mitigation system. It’s important to ensure it’s running continuously. Listen for any unusual noises, which could indicate a failing motor. Most fans have a lifespan of around 5-10 years.
• Regular Retesting: As mentioned above, retesting every two years is crucial to ensure the system continues to perform as expected.
• System Inspection: Annually, inspect the system for any signs of damage or deterioration, such as cracks in the piping or loose connections.
• Home Modifications: Any significant home renovations, such as adding an addition or remodeling the basement, could affect the performance of the radon mitigation system. Consult with a radon professional after any major construction to ensure the system is still effective.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about Radon Mitigation

FAQ 1: What radon level requires mitigation?

The EPA recommends mitigating radon levels at or above 4 pCi/L. Even if your levels are slightly below this threshold, you might consider mitigation to further reduce your risk.

FAQ 2: How much does radon mitigation cost?

The cost of radon mitigation varies depending on the complexity of the system and the size of your home. On average, expect to pay between $800 and $2,500.

FAQ 3: Can I install a radon mitigation system myself?

While DIY radon mitigation kits are available, it’s strongly recommended to hire a certified professional. Proper installation is crucial for effectiveness and safety. Improperly installed systems can be ineffective or even increase radon levels in your home.

FAQ 4: How long does radon mitigation take?

Installation typically takes one day for a standard sub-slab depressurization system. More complex installations may require additional time.

FAQ 5: How effective is radon mitigation?

A properly installed radon mitigation system can reduce radon levels by up to 99%.

FAQ 6: Will a radon mitigation system affect my home’s resale value?

While some buyers may be hesitant about homes with a history of high radon levels, having a certified mitigation system in place can actually increase your home’s resale value by demonstrating that the problem has been addressed. Full disclosure is key.

FAQ 7: Are there different types of radon test kits?

Yes, there are short-term and long-term radon test kits. Short-term kits provide results within a few days, while long-term kits measure radon levels over several months for a more accurate average.

FAQ 8: Does sealing cracks in my foundation eliminate radon?

Sealing cracks can help reduce radon entry, but it’s rarely enough to eliminate the problem entirely. A dedicated radon mitigation system is usually necessary for levels above 4 pCi/L.

FAQ 9: Where can I find a certified radon mitigation professional?

You can find certified radon mitigation professionals through your state’s radon program or by searching the websites of organizations like the American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists (AARST).

FAQ 10: Does radon mitigation require an electrical outlet?

Yes, sub-slab depressurization systems require an electrical outlet to power the fan. Ensure there’s a readily accessible outlet near the installation location.

FAQ 11: Will a radon mitigation system make my house colder?

Modern radon mitigation systems are designed to minimize heat loss. While there might be a slight temperature difference, it’s usually negligible and doesn’t significantly impact your home’s heating bill. Some systems incorporate heat recovery measures.

FAQ 12: What happens if my radon levels are still high after mitigation?

Contact your mitigation contractor immediately. They will re-evaluate the system and make any necessary adjustments or repairs to ensure it effectively reduces radon levels. A guarantee is typically offered, addressing this scenario.