How to Winterize a Sprinkler System With an Air Compressor?
Winterizing your sprinkler system with an air compressor involves using compressed air to force water out of the pipes and sprinkler heads, preventing freezing and subsequent damage. This method is highly effective when performed correctly and is a crucial step in maintaining the longevity of your irrigation system.
Understanding the Importance of Winterization
Freezing temperatures can wreak havoc on your sprinkler system. Water expands when it freezes, causing pipes to crack, sprinkler heads to burst, and backflow preventers to fail. The repair costs associated with neglecting winterization can be substantial. Properly winterizing, especially using the air compressor method, ensures that your system remains functional and ready for use in the spring.
The Air Compressor Method: A Step-by-Step Guide
Before starting, always consult your sprinkler system’s manual. Some systems have specific recommendations or precautions regarding winterization. This guide provides a general overview, but adherence to manufacturer instructions is paramount.
Step 1: Gathering Your Supplies
You’ll need the following tools and materials:
- Air compressor: Choose one with sufficient CFM (cubic feet per minute) output. Generally, a compressor delivering 20-30 CFM is adequate for most residential systems.
- Adaptor fittings: These are necessary to connect the air compressor hose to your sprinkler system’s blow-out port or the main line. The type of fitting will depend on your specific system. Common fittings include quick-connects and threaded adaptors.
- Safety glasses: Protecting your eyes from debris is crucial.
- Ear protection: Compressors can be noisy.
- Wrench: To tighten and loosen fittings as needed.
Step 2: Locating the Blow-Out Port or Main Line
Most professionally installed sprinkler systems have a designated blow-out port. This is a fitting specifically designed for connecting an air compressor. It’s usually located after the backflow preventer or at the end of the main line. If you don’t have a blow-out port, you’ll need to connect directly to the main line after the backflow preventer. In this case, you might need a plumber to install a temporary fitting.
Step 3: Connecting the Air Compressor
Attach the appropriate adaptor fitting to your air compressor hose. Then, carefully connect the hose to the blow-out port or the main line fitting. Ensure the connection is secure and airtight.
Step 4: Adjusting the Air Compressor Pressure
Important: Do not exceed 80 PSI (pounds per square inch) of air pressure. Excessive pressure can damage pipes and sprinkler heads. A lower pressure (around 40-50 PSI) is often sufficient. Start with the lowest recommended pressure and gradually increase it if necessary. Always monitor the pressure gauge.
Step 5: Blowing Out the System Zone by Zone
This is where the process requires patience and attention. Start by manually opening the zone valve furthest from the air compressor connection. This allows the compressed air to flow through that zone, pushing out any remaining water.
Allow the air to run through the zone until only air is coming out of the sprinkler heads. This may take several minutes. You’ll see a mist or sputtering of water initially, gradually transitioning to a steady stream of air.
Once the first zone is clear, close that valve and move on to the next furthest zone, repeating the process. Continue until all zones have been blown out.
Step 6: Repeating the Process (if Necessary)
For larger or more complex systems, it may be necessary to repeat the blow-out process. This ensures that all water is removed, especially in low-lying areas of the system. Wait 30 minutes and repeat the entire zone-by-zone process.
Step 7: Disconnecting the Air Compressor
Once you’ve finished blowing out all the zones, carefully disconnect the air compressor hose from the blow-out port or main line fitting. Replace any caps or plugs on the fitting to protect it from debris.
Step 8: Protecting the Backflow Preventer
The backflow preventer is a critical component and particularly vulnerable to freezing. Ideally, you should remove the backflow preventer and store it indoors in a heated area for the winter. If that’s not possible, insulate it thoroughly with pipe insulation or a heat tape designed for freeze protection. Never use rags or towels, as they can absorb moisture and freeze, making the problem worse.
Step 9: Consider Other Protective Measures
Even after blowing out the system, small amounts of water can remain in the pipes and sprinkler heads. Consider adding RV antifreeze (specifically designed for plumbing systems) to the sprinkler heads. This will provide an extra layer of protection against freezing. Never use automotive antifreeze, as it is toxic and harmful to the environment.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Here are some frequently asked questions regarding winterizing your sprinkler system with an air compressor:
FAQ 1: What happens if I don’t winterize my sprinkler system?
If you don’t winterize, the water trapped in the pipes and sprinkler heads will freeze, expand, and potentially crack the pipes, damage sprinkler heads, and destroy the backflow preventer. These damages can lead to costly repairs.
FAQ 2: How do I know what CFM air compressor I need?
A compressor delivering 20-30 CFM is generally sufficient for most residential sprinkler systems. However, larger systems or those with long pipe runs may require a compressor with a higher CFM output. Consult your system’s manual or a professional for specific recommendations.
FAQ 3: Can I use too much air pressure when blowing out the system?
Yes! Exceeding 80 PSI can damage the pipes and sprinkler heads. Always start with a lower pressure and gradually increase it only if necessary. Monitor the pressure gauge closely.
FAQ 4: What if I don’t have a blow-out port?
If you don’t have a blow-out port, you’ll need to connect directly to the main line after the backflow preventer. This may require a plumber to install a temporary fitting.
FAQ 5: How long should I blow out each zone?
Blow out each zone until only air is coming out of the sprinkler heads. This may take several minutes per zone. You’ll see a mist or sputtering of water initially, gradually transitioning to a steady stream of air.
FAQ 6: Is it necessary to repeat the blow-out process?
For larger or more complex systems, repeating the blow-out process is recommended to ensure that all water is removed, especially in low-lying areas of the system.
FAQ 7: What type of antifreeze should I use?
Only use RV antifreeze specifically designed for plumbing systems. Never use automotive antifreeze, as it is toxic and harmful to the environment.
FAQ 8: How do I protect my backflow preventer?
Ideally, remove the backflow preventer and store it indoors in a heated area. If that’s not possible, insulate it thoroughly with pipe insulation or a heat tape designed for freeze protection.
FAQ 9: Can I use rags or towels to insulate my backflow preventer?
No! Never use rags or towels, as they can absorb moisture and freeze, making the problem worse. Use proper pipe insulation or heat tape.
FAQ 10: What if water continues to come out of a sprinkler head even after blowing it out?
This could indicate a low spot in the pipe where water is pooling. Try increasing the air pressure slightly (while staying below 80 PSI) and blowing out the zone again. You may also need to manually remove the sprinkler head and drain the water.
FAQ 11: Is it possible to damage my system by winterizing it?
Yes, improper winterization can damage your system. Using excessive air pressure, failing to protect the backflow preventer, or not removing all the water can lead to problems. Consult a professional if you’re unsure about any aspect of the process.
FAQ 12: When is the best time to winterize my sprinkler system?
Winterize your sprinkler system before the first hard freeze of the season. Keep an eye on the weather forecast and plan to winterize when temperatures are consistently below freezing.
Conclusion
Winterizing your sprinkler system with an air compressor is an essential task for homeowners in cold climates. By following these steps and taking necessary precautions, you can protect your system from freezing damage and ensure its longevity. If you’re not comfortable performing this task yourself, consider hiring a qualified irrigation professional. A little preventative maintenance can save you significant repair costs in the long run.