How to Winterize a Camper With Air? The Definitive Guide
Winterizing a camper with air conditioning involves a meticulous process of protecting plumbing, appliances, and the A/C unit itself from freezing temperatures. Neglecting this critical task can lead to burst pipes, damaged equipment, and costly repairs come springtime. This comprehensive guide provides a step-by-step approach to properly winterizing your camper, ensuring it survives the winter unscathed.
Understanding the Importance of Winterization
Freezing temperatures can wreak havoc on a camper’s internal systems, particularly the plumbing. Water expands when it freezes, applying tremendous pressure on pipes, fittings, and appliances. This pressure can cause cracks, leaks, and even complete system failures. Winterizing your camper with air removes water from these vulnerable areas, preventing freezing and ensuring the long-term health of your recreational vehicle.
A Step-by-Step Winterization Process
This guide covers the entire winterization process, including addressing the often-overlooked air conditioning unit. Follow these steps carefully for a successful outcome.
1. Gather Your Supplies
Before you begin, assemble all the necessary supplies. This will save time and prevent interruptions during the winterization process. Essential items include:
- RV Antifreeze (Non-toxic, potable): The amount needed depends on the size of your RV’s plumbing system. Consult your owner’s manual for guidance.
- Water Heater Bypass Kit (if not already installed): This allows you to bypass the water heater, saving on antifreeze.
- Water Pump Converter Kit (or tubing): This connects the water pump to the antifreeze jug.
- Wrench: For removing drain plugs.
- Screwdriver: For various tasks, such as removing access panels.
- Air Compressor with Blow-Out Adapter: To blow out water lines.
- Hand Pump Sprayer: To winterize drains and P-traps.
- Drain Plug Wrench (if needed): Some drain plugs require a specific wrench.
- Plumbing Tape (Teflon tape): For resealing drain plugs.
- Bucket: To catch water.
2. Drain the Water System
Complete draining is crucial. This involves several steps:
- Drain the Fresh Water Tank: Locate the drain valve (usually underneath the tank) and open it to allow the tank to empty completely.
- Drain the Water Heater: Turn off the water heater (both electric and gas) well in advance to allow it to cool down. Remove the drain plug (typically located at the bottom) and let the water drain out. Caution: Hot water can cause severe burns. Consider installing a water heater bypass kit to save on antifreeze in the future. Replace the drain plug with new plumbing tape.
- Drain the Black and Gray Water Tanks: Empty and flush these tanks thoroughly at a designated dumping station. Add a small amount of RV antifreeze to each tank to prevent remaining residue from freezing.
- Open All Faucets and Flush the Toilet: This releases pressure and allows water to drain from the lines.
3. Bypass the Water Heater (If Equipped)
If you have a water heater bypass kit, engage it. This diverts antifreeze around the water heater, saving you several gallons of antifreeze. If you don’t have one, you’ll need to fill the entire water heater with antifreeze.
4. Blow Out the Water Lines
This step is essential for removing as much water as possible.
- Connect the Air Compressor: Attach the blow-out adapter to a faucet or the water inlet connection. Set the air compressor to a low pressure (around 30-40 PSI).
- Open Faucets and Flush the Toilet: Starting with the faucet furthest from the water pump, open it and allow air to blow through until no more water comes out. Repeat for each faucet (hot and cold) and the toilet. Do this several times.
- Remove the Air Compressor: Disconnect the air compressor and adapter.
5. Introduce RV Antifreeze
Now it’s time to protect the remaining water lines with RV antifreeze.
- Install the Water Pump Converter Kit: Connect the water pump converter kit (or tubing) to the inlet side of the water pump. Place the other end of the tubing into a jug of RV antifreeze.
- Turn on the Water Pump: Turn on the water pump to draw antifreeze into the plumbing system.
- Open Faucets and Flush the Toilet: Open each faucet (hot and cold) one at a time until you see pink antifreeze flowing. Repeat for the toilet. Don’t forget the outside shower if you have one.
- Pour Antifreeze into Drains and Toilet: Pour RV antifreeze into each drain (sink, shower) and flush it into the P-trap. Pour some antifreeze into the toilet bowl as well.
6. Winterize the Air Conditioner
This is a often neglected but crucial step.
- Clean the Air Conditioner: Remove any leaves, debris, or dirt from the A/C unit. Clean the coils with a soft brush.
- Inspect the Condensation Drain: Locate the condensation drain on the roof. Ensure it is clear of obstructions to prevent water from pooling and freezing inside the unit. Use compressed air to blow out any debris.
- Cover the Air Conditioner: A properly fitted RV air conditioner cover is essential to protect the unit from snow, ice, rain, and UV damage. This cover prevents moisture from entering the unit and freezing internal components.
7. Other Considerations
- Ice Maker/Water Dispenser: If your RV has an ice maker or water dispenser, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for winterizing these appliances. This often involves disconnecting water lines and adding antifreeze.
- Washing Machine/Dishwasher: Consult the owner’s manuals for specific winterization procedures.
- Batteries: Remove batteries and store them in a cool, dry place. Consider using a battery maintainer to keep them charged over the winter.
- Rodent Control: Take steps to prevent rodents from entering your RV, as they can cause significant damage. Seal any openings and consider using rodent repellent.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q1: Why is RV antifreeze pink?
A1: RV antifreeze is dyed pink to distinguish it from regular automotive antifreeze, which is highly toxic. The pink color helps prevent accidental ingestion. Always use non-toxic, potable RV antifreeze.
Q2: Can I use compressed air alone to winterize?
A2: While blowing out the lines with compressed air is a crucial step, it’s not sufficient on its own. Some water will inevitably remain in the system, and using RV antifreeze provides an added layer of protection against freezing.
Q3: How much RV antifreeze do I need?
A3: The amount of RV antifreeze needed depends on the size of your RV’s plumbing system. A general rule of thumb is 2-3 gallons for a small travel trailer and 3-6 gallons for a larger RV. Consult your owner’s manual for specific recommendations.
Q4: Is it okay to use too much RV antifreeze?
A4: Using slightly more RV antifreeze than necessary is better than not using enough. The excess will simply be diluted when you de-winterize in the spring.
Q5: Do I need to winterize my city water connection?
A5: Yes, it is essential to winterize the city water connection. Disconnect the hose and blow out the connection with compressed air. Add a small amount of RV antifreeze to the connection to prevent freezing.
Q6: What if I forget to bypass the water heater?
A6: If you forget to bypass the water heater, you will need to fill the entire tank with RV antifreeze, which can be costly. Double-check this step before introducing antifreeze into the system.
Q7: How do I winterize an outside shower?
A7: Winterize the outside shower the same way you winterize the inside faucets. Open both hot and cold faucets until you see pink antifreeze flowing.
Q8: Can I just leave my RV air conditioner uncovered?
A8: Leaving your RV air conditioner uncovered exposes it to the elements, which can lead to damage from snow, ice, rain, and UV rays. Always use a properly fitted cover to protect the unit.
Q9: What happens if I don’t winterize my camper?
A9: Failure to winterize your camper can result in burst pipes, damaged appliances, and costly repairs. The expanding ice can crack plumbing fixtures and even damage the RV’s frame.
Q10: How do I de-winterize my camper in the spring?
A10: De-winterizing involves flushing the antifreeze from the water system, sanitizing the fresh water tank, and inspecting all components for leaks or damage. Consult a separate guide for detailed de-winterizing instructions.
Q11: Can I use automotive antifreeze instead of RV antifreeze?
A11: Absolutely not! Automotive antifreeze is highly toxic and should never be used in a potable water system. Only use non-toxic, potable RV antifreeze.
Q12: How often should I inspect my camper during the winter?
A12: Ideally, inspect your camper every few weeks to check for signs of leaks, rodent activity, or other potential problems. This will allow you to address issues promptly and prevent further damage. Even a covered AC unit should be checked for cover integrity.