How Do You Lower Radon Levels?
Lowering radon levels typically involves installing a radon mitigation system, which prevents radon gas from entering your home. These systems commonly use a vent pipe and fan to draw radon from beneath the foundation and exhaust it outside, effectively reducing indoor radon concentrations.
Understanding the Radon Threat
Radon is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless radioactive gas that forms naturally from the decay of uranium in soil, rock, and water. It’s a leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers, making mitigation a critical health concern. While radon is present in outdoor air at very low levels, it can accumulate to dangerous concentrations inside buildings, particularly homes. This is because buildings can draw radon from the surrounding soil through cracks in foundations, gaps around pipes, and other entry points. Testing for radon is the only way to know if you have a problem.
Key Radon Mitigation Strategies
Several effective methods exist to lower radon levels. The most common and reliable is the sub-slab depressurization system.
Sub-Slab Depressurization
This system creates a vacuum beneath the concrete slab foundation, drawing radon gas away from the home and venting it outside. A hole is drilled through the foundation, and a pipe is inserted. A fan connected to the pipe then pulls air from beneath the slab and exhausts it above the roofline. Proper installation is crucial for this system to work effectively.
Active Soil Depressurization
Similar to sub-slab depressurization, this method addresses radon entering through crawl spaces. Instead of depressurizing directly beneath the slab, it focuses on depressurizing the soil surrounding the foundation.
Sealing Cracks and Openings
While sealing alone is rarely sufficient to reduce radon levels to below the EPA action level (4 pCi/L), it can be a valuable part of a comprehensive mitigation strategy. Sealing cracks in the foundation, around pipes, and in other openings can help reduce radon entry points.
Ventilation
Increasing ventilation can help dilute radon concentrations inside a home. This can be achieved through natural ventilation (opening windows and doors) or mechanical ventilation (using fans or air exchangers). However, ventilation alone is often insufficient for significant radon reduction, especially in homes with high radon levels.
Block Wall Depressurization
This method is used in homes with hollow block foundation walls. A hole is drilled into the wall, and a pipe is inserted to draw air from inside the block cavities and vent it outside.
Radon-Resistant New Construction (RRNC)
If you’re building a new home, incorporating RRNC techniques can significantly reduce the risk of future radon problems. These techniques include installing a vapor barrier, a gravel layer beneath the slab, and a capped pipe for future radon mitigation if needed. This is generally more cost-effective than retrofitting a home later.
The Importance of Professional Mitigation
While DIY radon mitigation kits are available, hiring a qualified radon mitigation professional is highly recommended. A certified professional has the knowledge, experience, and equipment to properly assess your home, design an effective mitigation system, and ensure it’s installed correctly. They can also perform post-mitigation testing to verify that the system is working as intended. Look for professionals certified by the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP) or the American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists (AARST). Certification ensures adherence to industry standards and best practices.
Monitoring Radon Levels Post-Mitigation
After a radon mitigation system is installed, it’s essential to retest radon levels to confirm its effectiveness. This should be done within 30 days of installation. Even with a working system, periodic retesting (every two years or so) is recommended to ensure that radon levels remain low. Continuous radon monitors are also available for ongoing monitoring.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
FAQ 1: What is the EPA action level for radon, and what does it mean?
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends fixing your home if the radon level is 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher. This is considered the action level. While there is no safe level of radon, taking action at or above 4 pCi/L significantly reduces your risk of lung cancer.
FAQ 2: How do I test my home for radon?
You can purchase a radon test kit from a hardware store, home improvement store, or online. Follow the instructions carefully, placing the detector in the lowest livable area of your home. Alternatively, you can hire a certified radon tester to perform the test.
FAQ 3: How long does a radon test take?
Short-term radon tests typically last between 2 and 7 days, while long-term tests can last for several months. Short-term tests are more common for initial screening, while long-term tests provide a more accurate average radon level.
FAQ 4: What is the cost of radon mitigation?
The cost of radon mitigation varies depending on the size and construction of your home, the type of mitigation system installed, and the local market. However, most radon mitigation systems cost between $800 and $2500.
FAQ 5: Can I lower radon levels myself with DIY methods?
While sealing cracks and increasing ventilation can help reduce radon levels, they are rarely sufficient to bring levels below the EPA action level. DIY radon mitigation kits are available, but professional installation is generally recommended to ensure the system is effective and safe.
FAQ 6: How does a radon mitigation system work?
A sub-slab depressurization system, the most common type, works by creating a vacuum beneath the foundation, drawing radon gas away from the home and venting it outside through a pipe and fan. This prevents radon from entering the living spaces.
FAQ 7: Will a radon mitigation system affect my home’s resale value?
While some buyers may be concerned about radon, having a radon mitigation system installed can actually increase your home’s resale value. It demonstrates that you have addressed a potential health hazard and can provide peace of mind to potential buyers.
FAQ 8: How noisy is a radon mitigation system fan?
Radon mitigation system fans are generally quiet, especially newer models. However, some fan noise may be noticeable. Positioning the fan in an attic or garage can help minimize noise levels.
FAQ 9: What maintenance is required for a radon mitigation system?
Radon mitigation systems typically require minimal maintenance. The fan should be inspected annually to ensure it’s operating properly. The system should also be retested periodically to verify its continued effectiveness.
FAQ 10: Can radon be a problem in apartment buildings?
Yes, radon can be a problem in apartment buildings, particularly those on lower floors. Testing is recommended, and mitigation options may vary depending on the building’s construction and management policies.
FAQ 11: What are the health risks associated with radon exposure?
The primary health risk associated with radon exposure is lung cancer. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States, after smoking. The risk increases with higher radon levels and longer exposure times.
FAQ 12: Does homeowner’s insurance cover radon testing or mitigation?
Typically, homeowner’s insurance does not cover radon testing or mitigation. However, it’s always best to check with your insurance provider to confirm your coverage. Some states may offer financial assistance programs for radon mitigation.