How Do I Get Rid of Radon?
The most effective way to get rid of radon is to install a radon mitigation system, typically a sub-slab depressurization system, which vents radon gas safely outside your home. This usually involves sealing cracks and openings in the foundation, installing a vent pipe that runs from beneath the slab to above the roofline, and using a fan to actively draw radon away from your home.
Understanding the Radon Threat
Radon is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless radioactive gas that occurs naturally from the decay of uranium in soil, rock, and water. It’s the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States, responsible for an estimated 21,000 deaths each year. The Surgeon General and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommend testing all homes for radon. If your home’s radon level is 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher, mitigation is strongly recommended. Even levels between 2 and 4 pCi/L should be considered for mitigation. Unlike many environmental hazards, radon is primarily a problem inside buildings where it can accumulate. The problem isn’t limited to older homes; new construction can also have radon issues.
Why is Radon Dangerous?
Radon poses a health risk because it decays into radioactive particles that can get trapped in your lungs when you breathe. As these particles break down further, they release small bursts of energy that can damage lung tissue and lead to lung cancer. The risk increases with higher radon levels and longer exposure times. Smoking significantly increases the risk of lung cancer in individuals exposed to radon. Even low levels of radon pose some risk, and the EPA recommends lowering radon levels as much as possible.
The Radon Mitigation Process: A Step-by-Step Guide
The most common and effective radon mitigation technique is sub-slab depressurization (SSD). This involves creating a vacuum beneath the concrete slab of your foundation to draw radon gas away from your home and venting it safely outdoors.
Identifying Entry Points
The first step is to identify potential radon entry points into your home. Common areas include:
- Cracks in the foundation floor and walls: Even small cracks can allow radon to seep in.
- Gaps around pipes and wires: Utility penetrations often have gaps that need sealing.
- Sump pits: Sump pits can be a direct pathway for radon to enter the home.
- Construction joints: Joints between different sections of the foundation can be sources.
- Drains: Open drains can allow radon gas to enter from the surrounding soil.
Sealing and Ventilation
Once entry points are identified, they should be sealed to minimize radon intrusion. This involves using caulk, sealant, or expanding foam to close off cracks and gaps.
Next, a hole is drilled through the concrete slab, and a suction pit is created beneath the slab. A PVC vent pipe is then connected to the hole and routed outside the house, typically through the attic and roof.
Installing a Radon Fan
A radon fan is installed in the vent pipe to actively draw radon gas from beneath the slab. The fan is typically located in the attic or outside the house to minimize noise. The fan continuously operates, creating a negative pressure beneath the slab and preventing radon from entering the home. Properly chosen and installed fans are specifically designed for continuous operation and quiet performance.
Testing After Mitigation
After the mitigation system is installed, a post-mitigation radon test should be conducted to ensure the system is effectively reducing radon levels to below the EPA action level of 4 pCi/L. Testing is essential to verify the system’s performance and identify any necessary adjustments. Even if the initial test shows levels below 4 pCi/L, periodic retesting is recommended, typically every two years, to ensure the system continues to function effectively.
Choosing a Radon Mitigation Professional
Radon mitigation should ideally be performed by a certified radon mitigation professional. A qualified professional will have the knowledge, experience, and equipment to properly assess your home, design an effective mitigation system, and ensure its proper installation.
Certification and Licensing
Look for a mitigator who is certified by the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP) or the National Radon Safety Board (NRSB). These organizations ensure that mitigators have met specific training and experience requirements. Also, check with your state health department to see if radon mitigation professionals are required to be licensed in your area.
Experience and References
Ask for references from previous clients and check online reviews. A reputable mitigator should be able to provide you with a list of satisfied customers. Inquire about the mitigator’s experience in installing radon mitigation systems in homes similar to yours.
Written Contracts and Warranties
Ensure that the mitigator provides you with a written contract outlining the scope of work, the cost of the project, and any warranties offered. A good contract will specify the target radon level that the mitigator expects to achieve and the steps they will take if the system fails to meet that target.
FAQs: Your Radon Questions Answered
1. How much does radon mitigation cost?
The cost of radon mitigation can vary depending on the size and design of your home, the type of mitigation system installed, and the location of your home. On average, expect to pay between $800 and $2,500 for a standard sub-slab depressurization system. More complex systems or homes with multiple foundations may cost more.
2. Can I install a radon mitigation system myself?
While DIY radon mitigation kits are available, it is generally not recommended to install a system yourself unless you have extensive experience in construction and understand the principles of radon mitigation. A properly installed system requires specialized knowledge and equipment. Mistakes can lead to ineffective mitigation and continued exposure to radon.
3. Does radon mitigation affect my home’s resale value?
A professionally installed and maintained radon mitigation system can actually increase your home’s resale value. It demonstrates to potential buyers that you have addressed a potential health hazard and taken steps to ensure a safe living environment. Disclosing the presence of radon and the mitigation system is essential.
4. How long does a radon mitigation system last?
A well-maintained radon mitigation system can last for many years. The fan is the component most likely to require replacement, typically after 5 to 10 years of continuous operation. Periodic testing and maintenance are essential to ensure the system continues to function effectively.
5. Is there a guaranteed way to get rid of radon completely?
While radon mitigation systems are highly effective, they cannot guarantee 100% radon removal. The goal is to reduce radon levels to below the EPA action level of 4 pCi/L, and ideally below 2 pCi/L. Continuous monitoring and adjustments may be necessary to maintain consistently low levels.
6. Will opening windows get rid of radon?
Opening windows can help to reduce radon levels by increasing ventilation, but it is not a reliable or sustainable solution. The effect is temporary, and radon levels will likely return to high levels when the windows are closed. Mitigation systems provide a permanent solution.
7. Do new homes need radon mitigation?
Yes, new homes can still have radon problems. Radon levels are dependent on the soil and geology beneath the foundation, regardless of the age of the house. Many states now require radon-resistant new construction techniques, but even these homes should be tested after occupancy.
8. How often should I test my home for radon?
You should test your home for radon at least every two years. You should also test after any significant renovations or changes to your home’s foundation or ventilation system.
9. What is radon-resistant new construction?
Radon-resistant new construction (RRNC) techniques are building practices designed to minimize radon entry in new homes. These techniques include:
- A gas-permeable layer beneath the slab
- Plastic sheeting to prevent radon from entering
- Sealing and caulking foundation cracks
- A vent pipe that extends from beneath the slab to above the roof.
10. Can radon in my water be a problem?
Yes, radon can also be present in well water. If your home uses well water, you should have your water tested for radon. Mitigation options for radon in water include aeration systems and granular activated carbon filters.
11. What do I do if my mitigation system fails a post-mitigation test?
If your post-mitigation test results are above the EPA action level, contact your mitigation professional immediately. They may need to adjust the system, such as increasing the fan speed or sealing additional entry points. A reputable mitigator will address any issues until the system effectively reduces radon levels.
12. Is radon mitigation regulated?
Yes, many states have regulations governing radon testing and mitigation. Check with your state health department for information on licensing requirements and radon standards in your area. Federal guidance is provided by the EPA.
By understanding the radon threat and taking appropriate mitigation steps, you can protect your health and ensure a safe living environment for you and your family. Remember, proactive testing and remediation are key to minimizing your risk.