How To Keep Tarantulas For Beginners: A Comprehensive Guide
Starting your journey into tarantula keeping can seem daunting, but it’s surprisingly achievable with the right knowledge. This guide simplifies the process, explaining everything you need to know to successfully and responsibly care for these fascinating creatures, answering the question of how do you keep tarantulas for beginners?
A Beginner’s Guide to Tarantula Keeping
Tarantulas, with their impressive size and captivating demeanor, make fascinating pets. However, responsible ownership requires understanding their specific needs. This guide offers a step-by-step approach for beginners, covering everything from selecting the right species to creating the ideal habitat and ensuring their long-term health and well-being.
Why Keep a Tarantula? The Allure of the Eight-Legged Wonder
Many are surprised to learn that tarantulas can make excellent pets. Here’s why:
- Low Maintenance: Compared to mammals, tarantulas require minimal daily care.
- Quiet Companions: They don’t require walks or constant attention.
- Fascinating Observation: Their behavior and unique characteristics are captivating to observe.
- Long Lifespan: Many species can live for decades, providing years of companionship.
- Space-Saving: They require relatively small enclosures.
Choosing the Right Tarantula Species for a Beginner
Not all tarantulas are created equal. Some species are docile and hardy, making them ideal for beginners, while others are more aggressive or require specialized care. Here are a few recommended beginner species:
- Grammostola pulchra (Brazilian Black): Known for its docile temperament and beautiful, dark coloration.
- Grammostola rosea (Chilean Rose): A popular and readily available species with a calm demeanor.
- Brachypelma hamorii (Mexican Red Knee): A classic beginner tarantula with striking coloration and relatively docile nature. Note: This species is now CITES listed, which means they may require permits for trade in some regions.
- Aphonopelma chalcodes (Arizona Blonde): A hardy and docile native North American species.
Avoid these species:
- Poecilotheria spp. (Ornamental Tarantulas): Generally fast, nervous, and possess medically significant venom.
- Heteroscodra maculata (Togo Starburst): Highly defensive and possess medically significant venom.
- Any species labeled “defensive” or “fast-moving” without prior experience.
Setting Up the Perfect Tarantula Habitat
Creating the right environment is crucial for a tarantula’s health and well-being. Here’s what you’ll need:
- Enclosure: A glass or plastic enclosure with a secure, locking lid. The size should be appropriate for the species, generally 2-3 times the spider’s leg span in each dimension.
- Substrate: Coconut fiber (coir), peat moss, or a mixture of both. The substrate should be deep enough for burrowing species to create a burrow. Moisten the substrate but avoid making it soggy.
- Hiding Spot: A cork bark slab, half log, or ceramic cave provides a secure retreat.
- Water Dish: A shallow dish with clean water.
- Heating (Optional): If your ambient temperature is consistently below 65°F (18°C), a low-wattage heat mat attached to the side of the enclosure can provide supplemental heat. Never place the heat mat under the enclosure.
- Thermometer/Hygrometer: To monitor temperature and humidity levels.
Here’s a table summarizing the general requirements:
| Component | Recommendation | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| —————- | —————————————————— | —————————————————————————————————- |
| Enclosure Size | 2-3x leg span in each dimension | Consider adult size when purchasing. |
| Substrate | Coconut fiber, peat moss, or a mix | Maintain slight moisture. Avoid cedar and pine shavings. |
| Hiding Spot | Cork bark, half log, ceramic cave | Essential for the tarantula’s sense of security. |
| Water Dish | Shallow dish with fresh water | Replenish regularly. |
| Temperature | Generally 70-80°F (21-27°C) | Specific requirements vary by species. |
| Humidity | Varies by species; typically 50-70% | Mist the enclosure regularly to maintain humidity. Use a hygrometer to monitor. |
Feeding Your Tarantula
Tarantulas primarily eat insects. Here’s a guide to feeding:
- Food Items: Crickets, roaches (dubia, discoid), mealworms, and superworms are suitable food sources. Avoid feeding wild-caught insects, as they may carry parasites or pesticides.
- Feeding Frequency: Juvenile tarantulas should be fed 2-3 times per week. Adult tarantulas can be fed once every 1-2 weeks.
- Prey Size: The prey item should be approximately the same size as the tarantula’s abdomen.
- Removing Uneaten Prey: Remove any uneaten prey items after 24 hours to prevent them from stressing or injuring the tarantula.
Molting: A Crucial Stage in a Tarantula’s Life
Molting is the process of shedding the exoskeleton to allow for growth. During this time, tarantulas are vulnerable and should not be disturbed.
- Signs of Molting: Refusal to eat, lethargy, darkening of the abdomen, and spinning a silken mat.
- What to Do: Leave the tarantula undisturbed. Increase humidity slightly.
- After Molting: Wait at least a week after the tarantula has molted before offering food. The new exoskeleton is soft and easily damaged.
Handling Tarantulas: Proceed with Caution
While some tarantulas are docile, handling them is generally not recommended, especially for beginners.
- Why Avoid Handling? Tarantulas are fragile and can be easily injured if dropped. Some species have urticating hairs (defensive hairs they kick off their abdomen) that can cause skin irritation. Defensive species may bite.
- If Handling Is Necessary: Always be gentle and avoid sudden movements. Handle the tarantula over a soft surface (such as a bed) to minimize the risk of injury if it falls. Never handle a tarantula after it has recently molted.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Keeping Tarantulas
- Overfeeding: This can lead to health problems and premature death.
- Incorrect Humidity: Too much or too little humidity can cause molting problems.
- Inappropriate Substrate: Cedar and pine shavings are toxic to tarantulas.
- Overhandling: Stressful for the tarantula.
- Neglecting the Enclosure: Regular cleaning and maintenance are essential.
- Using Heat Rocks: These can cause severe burns.
- Cohabitating Tarantulas: Most species are solitary and will fight.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is the best substrate for a tarantula?
The best substrate options are generally coconut fiber (coir), peat moss, or a mixture of both. These substrates retain moisture well and allow for burrowing. Avoid cedar and pine shavings, as they contain oils that are toxic to tarantulas.
How often should I feed my tarantula?
The frequency of feeding depends on the tarantula’s age and size. Juvenile tarantulas should be fed 2-3 times per week, while adult tarantulas can be fed once every 1-2 weeks. Observe your tarantula’s abdomen; a plump abdomen indicates it’s well-fed.
How do I know if my tarantula is going to molt?
Signs that a tarantula is preparing to molt include refusal to eat, lethargy, darkening of the abdomen, and spinning a silken mat. It’s crucial not to disturb your tarantula during this vulnerable time.
What do I do if my tarantula bites me?
Tarantula bites are generally not medically significant, but it’s important to clean the wound thoroughly with soap and water. Some people may experience localized pain and swelling. Seek medical attention if you experience any allergic reaction or severe symptoms.
How do I handle urticating hairs?
Urticating hairs can cause skin irritation and itching. If you come into contact with them, wash the affected area with soap and water. You can also use duct tape to remove the hairs from your skin.
What temperature should I keep my tarantula at?
The ideal temperature range for most tarantulas is 70-80°F (21-27°C). Specific requirements may vary depending on the species. Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature inside the enclosure.
How do I maintain the humidity in my tarantula’s enclosure?
Humidity can be maintained by misting the substrate regularly with water. The frequency of misting will depend on the species and the ambient humidity. Use a hygrometer to monitor the humidity levels.
Can I keep two tarantulas together in the same enclosure?
No, tarantulas are generally solitary creatures and should not be cohabitated. They will likely fight, resulting in injury or death.
What do I do if my tarantula refuses to eat?
There are several reasons why a tarantula might refuse to eat, including being in premolt, stress, or being too cold. Check the enclosure’s temperature and humidity, and ensure the tarantula is not being disturbed. If the refusal to eat persists for an extended period, consult with an experienced keeper or veterinarian.
How long do tarantulas live?
The lifespan of a tarantula varies depending on the species and sex. Some species can live for decades, with females generally living longer than males.
Where can I buy a tarantula?
Tarantulas can be purchased from reputable breeders, reptile stores, and online retailers. Ensure the seller is knowledgeable and provides healthy animals. Avoid purchasing wild-caught tarantulas, as they may be stressed and carry parasites.
How do you keep tarantulas for beginners? How do you keep tarantulas for beginners is best answered by starting slow, selecting a docile species like the Chilean Rose or Mexican Red Knee, providing a secure and appropriately sized enclosure with the correct substrate and a hiding place, offering a proper diet of appropriately sized insects, maintaining the correct humidity and temperature, and always prioritizing the tarantula’s safety and well-being over handling. Remember, careful research and responsible care are essential to providing a happy and healthy life for your new eight-legged friend when learning how do you keep tarantulas for beginners?